Eating and drinking

In general, meals in New Zealand are substantial, no frills affairs. But you can find continental finesse in both cooking and service in top city restaurants. Home entertaining is usually informal and hearty.

Food specialties. New Zealand lamb is world renowned and needs no introduction; you'll also find beef, pork, and poultry on restaurant menus. Venison and wild pork are available at restaurants specializing in wild game.

New Zealanders are very partial to what the Maoris call kai moana food from the sea and it is superb. Rock lobster (crayfish) is most plentiful in spring and early summer. Tiny whitebait, netted in coastal rivers as they migrate upstream in the spring, are served in crisp, batterfried fritters. Rock oysters are excellent, as are the succulent Bluff oysters scooped up from the chilly waters of Foveaux Strait. Scallops and mussels have distinctive yet delicate flavors. The rare toheroa usually goes into a rich soup; other creamy seafood soups feature the tuatua clam and the paua (abalone).

On restaurant menus you'll see a variety of ocean fish, including snapper, flounder, grouper, John Dory, and the sea perch called orange roughy. But if it's trout you want, you'll have to catch it yourself; trout fishing is strictly a sport, and none is caught commercially.New Zealand fruits are superb in season, but you won't always find them on restaurant menus. In addition to familiar varieties, look for kiwifruit, passion fruit, feijoa, and tamarillo (tree tomato).

Among New Zealand cheeses you'll discover are a local blue vein, several types of cheddar, and others based on favorite international varieties.

In Rotorua, you can sample Maori style cooking, with meat and vegetables cooked by steam in an underground oven.

Teas, lunch, and snacks. Morning and afternoon tea (or coffee) breaks are widely observed, both at home and at work. Along with your hot beverage you can enjoy scones, biscuits (cookies), thin sandwiches, or a "sweet."

In "takeaways," milk bars, coffee lounges, and other informal food centers, you can get a quick between meals snack, such as fish and chips, thin sandwiches, or warm savories. Many hotels feature smorgasbord lunches with an array of hot dishes, cold meats, salads, and desserts. Picnicking is a pleasant alternative when you're touring. Just be sure to plan ahead in areas such as the West Coast or Fiordland where facilities are widely scattered. You can pick up bread, cheese, fruit, and beverages for an informal repast; or, if you request it the previous night, your hotel may pack a lunch for you.

Beverages. Beer is the favorite drink, and spirits are also available. Among friends it's customary to take your turn "shouting" a round. Bars are open daily except Sunday, Christmas Day, and Good Friday. Licensed hotels serve drinks from 11 A.M. to 10 P.m. (to 11 on Saturday night) in bars, lounges, and licensed restaurants; guests staying in a licensed hotel can be served any time. Licensed restaurants serve liquor, beer, and wine. Informal restaurants may be unlicensed (you can call ahead and inquire); if you want, you can bring your own wine and pay a modest corkage fee. Bottled wine, beer, and liquor are available in bottle shops. Restaurant wine lists offer diners a growing selection of New Zealand table wines, as well as limited imports from Australia, the United States, and Europe. It's cus tomary to pay the wine steward separately for wine and drinks.