The Bay of Islands

What makes the Bay of Islands special? For some visitors it's the scenery broad vistas of sky and sea blended with wooded islands. For others it's the beaches, boating, and water sports. Some savor its historic sites. Yachters and anglers regard it as one of New Zealand's finest harbors and a top game fishing area. Residents treasure its unhurried pace, its balmy climate, and its serenity.

Rich in legend and mystery, the Bay of Islands is a microcosm of early New Zealand history, with ties to the Maoris, whalers, missionaries, and early settlers. For decades this quiet pastoral district had few contacts with the outside world. Today, it's a popular holiday resort.

Tourist facilities and accommodations are concentrated at Paihia. Across the bay is Russell, one time whaling port and now center of game fishing activities and headquarters for the Bay of Islands Maritime and Historic Park. Other historic sites include Waitangi (across the river from Paihia), Kerikeri, and Waimate North (pages 34 37). Farming and administrative center of the region is Kawakawa, south of the bay on Highway 1. Nearby is Waiomio Caves, a series of caverns with striking limestone formations and a glowworm gallery.

New Zealand's earliest settlements. The Bay of Islands has lured explorers for many centuries. According to Maori legend, the great Polynesian explorer Kupe visited the bay in the 10th century. Captain Cook, anchoring here in 1769, bestowed the simple name that captures its unpretentious charm. Three years later, the French explorer Marion du Fresne established a temporary base on Moturua Island.

In the early 1800s, sealers and whalers followed Cook's Pacific travels, anchoring in the harbor for ship repair and reprovisioning. An unruly settlement at Kororareka (now Russell) attracted assorted brigands and adventurers. Traders and colonists soon followed.

Next came the missionaries. Rev. Samuel Marsden and his party established an Anglican mission station at Rangihoua Bay in 1814; other missions followed at Kerikeri (1819), Paihia (1823), and Waimate North (1830). A Catholic mission was established at Kororareka in 1838.

By the early 1830s, most of New Zealand's white population had settled along the bay, and Britain appointed a British Resident, James Busby, to deal with problems caused by haphazard settlement. In 1840, Captain William Hobson arrived to negotiate with Maori chiefs. On February 6, 1840, British and Maori representatives signed the Treaty of Waitangi, proclaiming British sovereignty over New Zealand. Later that year the capital was moved south to Waitemata Harbour (Auckland), and the bay's era of influence was over.

A maritime and historic park. Many island and mainland reserves and historic areas extending from Whangaroa Harbour in the north to Whangaruru Harbour, south of Cape Brett have been brought together in the Bay of Islands Maritime and Historic Park. Many historically significant sites, as well as scenic and recreational lands, are included within its boundaries. At the park visitor center on The Strand in Russell, you'll learn more about this delightful region and the feast of activities awaiting you: swimming, picnicking, fishing, boating, skin diving, camping, walks and hikes, scenic drives, charter boat trips, and visits to historical sites. Midsummer visitors can join in guided excursions.

Park information is available from the chief ranger in Russell (P.O. Box 134; phone Russell 685), from the ranger in Kerikeri (P.O. Box 128; phone Kerikeri 78 474), or from the information officer, Bay of Islands Maritime and Historic Park, P.O. Box 5249, Auckland .

A fascinating water world. Sports enthusiasts from around the world come to fish these fabled waters, first popularized by American writer fisherman Zane Grey in the 1920s. Other visitors skin dive in the subtropical waters or cruise amidst the islands. The Bay of Islands is a favored port of call for large yachts and cruise ships.

More than a dozen game fishing boats are available for charter, either for day or overnight trips. The main summer season extends from November through May and is climaxed by a major competition in early May.

Colorful subtropical fish glide through these clear seas, and corals and sponges thrive in the deeper water. Cape Brett is a favorite spot for divers; you can arrange for transportation and equipment in Paihia.

On the Paihia and Russell waterfronts, you can rent small boats by the day or week; charter boats are available at Opua and Russell.

Boat trips.

To fully appreciate the beauty of this fabled, island strewn bay, plan to cruise amid the wooded islets and explore the sparsely populated shore. Best known of the boat excursions is the Cream Trip, named for a coastal launch route of the 1920s that collected cream and delivered mail and supplies to scattered dairy farms. You sail along the coast and among the islands; on some trips, you stop to deliver mail, newspapers, and freight to waiting islanders.

Another favorite is the launch or catamaran cruise to Cape Brett, where a lighthouse marks the bay entrance. You'll circle Piercy Island, cruise into Cathedral Cave, and pass through the Hole in the Rock. Schoolfish (which attract marlin) and dolphins abound in these waters.

During holiday periods, a replica of one of the early coastal steamers departs from Kerikeri for a trip on the Kerikeri Inlet .

Water taxi service links the resorts with the islands and more remote bays. You can arrange a trip to Moturua or Motukiekie Island, for example, and hike the trails that connect one beach to the next. After transporting your party to the site, the boat returns at a prearranged time. Take along a picnic an if you like, fishing tackle or snorkeling equipment.