Coastal route

From the Bay of Islands, two roads head north to New Zealand's northern tip. Highway 1 follows a direct inland route to Kaitaia; Highway 10 skirts Whangaroa and Mangonui harbors and Doubtless Bay as it winds along the eastern coast. Narrow side roads branch off Highway 10 to coastal settlements and remote coves and beaches; mangrove trees grow in many tidal estuaries in this subtropical area.

Whangaroa Harbour. North of Kaeo, a road branches off to Whangaroa, where eroded volcanic pinnacles and steep timbered slopes enclose the calm harbor. Wooden houses with gabled roofs peek out from between the trees. Whangaroa attracts deep water anglers who come here to fish the waters around the Cavalli Islands.

The only way to fully appreciate the inlet's scenic setting is by boat. From September through May, sightseeing cruises from Whangaroa follow the shoreline to the harrow necked harbor entrance. Day trips and biggame fishing charters can be arranged. A coastal road loops east from Whangaroa to fine ocean beaches at Wainui and Matauri bays.

Mangonui. Houses climb the rolling hills encircling attractive Mangonui Bay. In the early days, the harbor was the gateway to the Far North and served as a whaling base and mill port for ships engaged in the kauri trade.

Today, local fishing boats tie up at Mangonui's wharf. It also houses the Mangonui Sea Lab and Aquarium, which contains marine life found in local waters. Small boats anchor at Mill Bay. For a sweeping view over Mangonui and Doubtless Bay, take the road to the Rangikapiti pa site overlooking the harbor.

Doubtless Bay. According to Maori legend, the great Polynesian explorer Kupe landed at Taipa centuries before the "great migration" south from Hawaiki. In 1769, Captain Cook sailed past the entrance and named the bay; eight days later, French explorer de Surville anchored here and narrowly escaped being wrecked.

Splendid beaches along the shore attract families during holiday periods. Surfcasters and shell collectors enjoy Tokerau Beach; skin divers favor Matai Bay and Cape Karikari. Game fishing is excellent outside the entrance to the bay.