Cosmopolitan Auckland

Sprawling across a narrow isthmus, Auckland and its farflung suburbs separate two magnificent harbors.

To the east, at the city's downtown doorstep, lies sparkling Waitemata Harbour, guarded by Rangitoto Island; beyond spread the waters of the Hauraki Gulf and Pacific Ocean. West of the city, the shallow turquoise waters of Manukau Harbour funnel into the Tasman Sea. Protruding from Auckland's landscape are the cones of numerous extinct volcanoes, many of which were once fortified by Maori tribes. Northwest of the city rise the forested Waitakere Ranges.

New Zealand's largest city, Auckland contains nearly a quarter of the country's population. It's the country's commercial and industrial center, North Island's transportation hub, and the arrival point of most overseas visitors. Enhancing the city's cosmopolitan flavor are a large Maori community, immigrants from various European and Asian countries, and Pacific Islanders attracted by employment and educational opportunities.

New waterfront development and modern shopping and office complexes distinguish Auckland's downtown. In the older suburbs, restored Victorian buildings provide nostalgic contrast. The city's most striking manmade structure is the Harbour Bridge, arcing dramatically across Waitemata Harbour and linking the city with the fast-growing North Shore.

No one lives far from the water, and Auckland's balmy year-round climate (though often hot and humid in summer) encourages water-oriented recreation. On weekends, families flock to the beaches, and hundreds of yachts cruise the sheltered harbors and gulf waters.Unlike the country's three other main cities, Auckland was not settled by organized, closely knit colonizing groups. After Auckland became the country's capital in 1840, government officials, tradesmen, and laborers migrated here, but no immigrant ships arrived until 1842. To protect the young town from hostile Maori tribes to the south, four military settlements of the Royal New Zealand Fencible Corps were established on the isthmus at Onehunga, Panmure, Howick, and Otahuhu.

As Auckland's population increased, land-hungry settlers coveting the rich Maori lands to the south soon embroiled the province in the Land Wars. Auckland lost its role as capital in 1865 to Wellington, but commerce generated by the Thames gold fields in the late 1860s helped to revive the city's economy. Today's wealth comes from development of Northland and Waikato farm lands and industrial expansion on the city's outskirts.

Getting settled in Auckland

Queen Street is downtown Auckland's main thoroughfare. From the Ferry Terminal on Quay Street to Karangahape Road, its route is lined with offices, stores, pedestrian malls, and shopping arcades.

Auckland offers a broad choice of entertainment. For current evening attractions and sporting events, check tourist publications, available at your hotel or from the Visitors' Bureau, or the daily newspapers.

City buses link the downtown district with most tourist destinations; bus information is also noted in some tourist publications. Shopping. Serious shoppers will appreciate the city's impressive array of excellent stores and shops, many of them specializing in quality New Zealand crafts.

A leisurely walk through the main shopping district offers many places to pause. Queens Arcade, at the comer of Queen and Customs streets, houses a delightful collection of shops in a setting enhanced by natural light, plants, marble, and mirrors. At 22 Customs Street West, the renovated Old Auckland Customhouse has a new lease on life as a handsome shopping emporium. Shoppers can browse in an Edwardian atmosphere along Strand Arcade.

Shops are generally open from 9 A.M. to 5 or 5:30 P.m. on weekdays, and from 9:30 A.M. to noon on Saturday; some shops in the Downtown Airline Terminal are open daily. Queen Street shops stay open until 9 P.m. on Friday; Thursday is "late night" on Karangahape Road.

Just minutes from Queen Street, Victoria Park Markets re-creates the spontaneous atmosphere of a lively European village food and craft market; it is open daily from 6:30 A.M. toll P.m. in renovated buildings on Victoria Street West opposite the park. Near the Town Hall, the Cook Street Market bustles with shoppers on Friday from 9 A.M. to 9 P.m. and on Saturday from 10 A.M. to 4 P.m.

Some delightful shopping areas are located in the suburbs. In Parnell, Victorian buildings along Parnell Road have been transformed into boutiques and specialty shops. In Remuera, one of the city's oldest and most select suburbs, modem arcades vie with fascinating older stores to tempt passersby. Interesting shops dot Ponsonby, one of the long-established western suburbs. In the casual atmosphere of Karangahape Road, you'll find bargains, variety, and a glimpse of Polynesia.

Entertainment. For an evening out, Aucklanders and visitors alike can enjoy dinner and dancing, a cabaret show, musical acts, or a theater restaurant.

Most concerts and recitals take place at the Town Hall. Touring shows, ballet, and stage plays are presented at His Majesty's Theatre; local casts perform at the Mercury Theatre and several smaller theaters. Western Springs Stadium and the Auckland Showgrounds on Greenlane Road in Epsom host special events.

In addition to the City Art Gallery, which features the art of New Zealand, Auckland has numerous downtown and suburban galleries offering changing exhibitions.

Sports and special events. Horse racing takes place at Ellershe Racecourse and Avondale Racecourse, and night trotting at Alexandra Park Raceway. Spectators can watch Rugby Union games and cricket test matches at Eden Park, Rugby League games at Carlaw Park in Parnell, soccer at Newmarket Park, and men's hockey at Hobson Park in Remuera. Basketball games and wrestling and boxing matches are held at the YMCA Stadium.

The beaches and bays of this city on the water attract thousands of bathers and boaters from November through March. Throughout the summer, yachts sail across harbor waters and amid the islands of the Hauraki Gulf. On the Monday nearest January 29, everyone heads for the Waiternata shore to watch the colorful Anniversary Day Yachting Regatta.

Largest of the country's A & P shows is the New Zealand Easter Show, held at the Auckland Showgrounds in Epsom. An annual event in July is the Auckland International Film Festival. Biennially in March, in evennumbered years, the Auckland Festival highlights all facets of the visual and performing arts.

Auckland-the essentials

Auckland, New Zealand's largest city, lies between two large harbors. All transportation lines converge here, making it a popular departure point for excursions to all parts of North Island. Getting there. Most overseas visitors arrive at Auckland International Airport, located at Mangere, about 20 km/13 miles south of the city center. Air service links Auckland with cities throughout New Zealand.

Auckland is the northern terminus of North Island rail service, and daily passenger trains connect the city with Wellington and intermediate points. A network of -motorcoach routes links Auckland with North Island's larger towns and tourist destinations. Cruise ships dock at Princes Wharf on Quay Street.

Accommodations. Auckland visitors can choose from a full range of downtown and surburban accommodations. Leading city hotels are the Sheraton-Auckland, on Symonds Street; Hyatt Kingsgate Auckland, at Waterloo Quadrant and Princes Street; Auckland Travelodge, on Quay Street overlooking the harbor; South Pacific, comer of Queen Street and Customs Street East; and Town House, on Anzac Avenue adjacent to Constitution Hill Park. A large Regent International hotel is due to open in early 1985 at Albert and Swanson streets.

Smaller, centrally located Auckland hotels include the Royal International, on Victoria Street West; DeBrett at High and Shortland streets; and Grafton Oaks Courtesy Inn, on Grafton Road near the Domain.

Among the large suburban hotels are the White Heron Regency and Rose Park Motor Inn in Parnell, Vacation Hotel at One Tree Hill, and Mon Desir Hotel in Takapuna on the North Shore. Near the airport, accommodations include the Auckland Airport Travelodge, Gateway Lodge, and Airport Inn. The suburbs also offer an excellent choice of motels, small private tourist hotels, and guest houses.

Hauraki Gulf accommodations are available on Pakatoa, Waiheke, and Great Barrier islands. Food and drink. Auckland's cosmopolitan population' reflected in the variety and quality of its more than 200 restaurants. Choices range from elegant to informal settings in restaurants featuring New Zealand seafood and game, continental cuisine, or ethnic fare from many parts of the world. Some restaurants occupy historic buildings; others offer views rivaling the cuisine.

Getting around. Taxis are available at all terminals and on Customs Street West just off Queen Street, or ask your hotel porter to telephone for one. Rental car offices are located at the airport, downtown, or in the suburbs, but avoid city driving if you can-Auckland has one of the highest traffic-to-population ratios in the world.

Buses of the Auckland Regional Authority (ARA) and suburban companies provide public transport throughout the metropolitan area. You can obtain route information by phone (797-119) or from the Bus Place, 131 Hobson Street. Buses depart from several downtown points; the Downtown Bus Centre is located on Commerce Street behind the main post office. Shuttle buses transport passengers between the railway station and Karangahape Road via Queen Street and Greys Avenue (exact change required, varying by zone).

The ferry to Devonport, on the North Shore, departs from the Ferry Terminal on Quay Street. Launches to Hauraki Gulf islands also leave from the waterfront.

Several companies operate half-day and full-day sightseeing tours; longer excursions are also available. Flightseeing trips take off from Mechanics Bay.

Tourist information. The Auckland Visitors' Bureau, 299 Queen Street at Aotea Square, has information on attractions and walking routes; maps and guidebooks are also available. A Travellers' Information Centre at the airport aids incoming visitors and will book Auckland accommodations. To make travel arrangements, schedule tours, and reserve accommodations throughout New Zealand, visit the Government Tourist Bureau, 99 Queen Street. Motoring information is available to members at the Automobile Association office, 33 Wyndham Street